How to Fix a Dripping Kitchen Faucet

Difficulty: Medium • Time: 45 min active, 60 min total • Estimated cost: $10-35 • Safety: DIY-friendly

Overview

A dripping kitchen faucet wastes up to 3,000 gallons of water per year and adds $20-35 to your annual water bill — for what's usually a $15 fix. Kitchen faucets drip for one reason: internal seals or components are worn and no longer hold back the water pressure when the handle is closed.

Kitchen faucets come in four main types: ball (a single handle that rotates over a rounded cap), cartridge (single or double handle with an internal cartridge), ceramic disc (single lever over a wide cylindrical body), and compression (older style with two handles that screw down). Each is fixed differently, but all follow the same basic approach: identify the faucet type, buy the right repair kit, replace the worn parts.

This guide focuses on the two most common kitchen faucet types — ball and cartridge — which cover about 80% of kitchen faucets in U.S. homes.

Tools Needed

Adjustable wrench
Phillips and flathead screwdrivers
Hex (Allen) wrench set
Needle-nose pliers
Utility knife
Plumber's grease
Bucket or towels

Materials Needed

Ball faucet repair kit (if you have a ball faucet) — $12-20
Cartridge replacement (if you have a cartridge faucet) — $10-25
Plumber's grease — $5-8
Teflon tape — $3-5

Step-by-Step Instructions

Identify your faucet type and locate the drip: Single-handle faucets that rotate on a ball: ball type. Single-handle faucets with a cartridge you can see if you remove the handle: cartridge type. Double-handle faucets with rubber seats: compression type. Note whether the drip comes from the spout (internal seal issue) or the base/handle area (O-ring issue). The spout drip is the most common complaint.
Turn off the water supply and drain the lines: Look under the sink for two shut-off valves (hot and cold). Turn both clockwise until they stop. Turn the faucet handle(s) to the on position to release remaining pressure and drain the lines — water will flow briefly then stop. Place a towel or bucket under the sink to catch drips. Close the drain so small parts don't fall in.
Remove the handle: Look for a decorative cap on top of the handle — pop it off with a flathead screwdriver to reveal a screw. Remove the screw (usually Phillips or hex/Allen). Pull the handle straight up to remove it. Some handles have the screw at the back of the handle base; others are held by a set screw on the side. If the handle won't come off, don't force it — wiggle it gently while pulling up.
For ball faucets: replace the ball, seats, and springs: Unscrew the cap and collar by hand or with adjustable pliers (wrap with tape to protect the finish). Lift out the ball, noting its orientation. Inside you'll see two small rubber seats each held by a spring — remove them with needle-nose pliers. Install the new springs and seats from your repair kit. Insert the new ball, aligning the slot in the ball with the metal pin in the faucet body. Reassemble the collar and cap.
For cartridge faucets: pull and replace the cartridge: Once the handle is off, you'll see a cartridge held by a retaining clip or nut. Pull the clip straight up with pliers or unscrew the nut. Grasp the cartridge stem and pull straight up — it takes firm, even force. Note the cartridge's orientation (the ears should face forward). Take the old cartridge to the hardware store to match the brand and model, or note the faucet brand and look up the part number. Press the new cartridge straight down, aligning the ears. Reinstall the retaining clip or nut.
Replace O-rings if leaking at the base: If water was leaking around the base of the spout (not the tip), the O-rings on the faucet body are worn. With the ball or cartridge removed, you can slide the spout straight up off the faucet body. You'll see rubber O-rings — cut them off with a utility knife and roll on new ones of the same size. Coat the new O-rings with plumber's grease before sliding the spout back on.
Reassemble and test: Reassemble in reverse order — cartridge or ball, collar, cap, handle, decorative cap. Tighten everything snugly but don't overtighten (you can crack the faucet body). Slowly open both shut-off valves under the sink. Turn the faucet on and off a few times. Check for leaks at the base and under the sink at the supply connections. The drip should be gone.

When to Call a Professional

Call a plumber if the faucet body itself is cracked or corroded, if the shut-off valves under the sink are frozen or leaking (they need repair first), if you've replaced the cartridge and it still drips (may need a different cartridge size or the valve seat is damaged), or if you're considering replacing the entire faucet — that's a straightforward plumbing job that many homeowners do themselves with our replacement guide.